Just got back from a perfect weekend’s sailing on our friends’ Phil and Joy’s Swan 44. Phil is a very accomplished sailor. He has sailed Newport-Bermuda a bunch of times, 3-times double-handed as well as Sydney-Hobart. Joy is no mean sailor herself having raced a J/24 for several years.
I have never sailed on a Swan before and they live up to their reputation: a beautiful boat, very solidly built that of course sails perfectly.
We left Sag Harbor on Saturday morning and motor-sailed to Block Island. the winds were light and it was hot and humid but coming into Great Salt Pond was spectacular (above). Over a thousand boats moored or anchored. Although there were a ton of power boats it’s mostly a sailor’s place. The Pond is huge but buzzing with activity.
The next day we took a taxi round the island. This shot was from the Southeast point looking out into the Atlantic.
On Sunday we sailed and motored a bit to Newport. Sailing into Newport is really special. The approach from the South gives your views up the Narragansett Bay either side of Jamestown Island. The entrance to the bay was packed with sailboats, various racing fleets, pleasure boats, schooners, you name it.
As you sail into Newport, there are stunning, historic homes like the Inn at Castle Hill and Hammersmith Farm where Jackie Kennedy (nee Bouvier) grew up.
The Newport Folk Festival was on at Fort Adams and we could hear the concert clearly as we bore round Brenton Point. There were hundreds of boats anchored off the Fort listening for free.
I know this sounds corny but the sight of Newport as you come round the corner would take any sailor’s breath away. Possible two thousand sailboats, a dozen massive motor yachts with helicopters on the aft-deck, launches buzzing around and Newport itself in the background. This picture doesn’t do it justice.
I worked in Newport during my university summer vacation in 1984 and Newport hasn’t changed much. If anything it’s better. 1984 was the year after the Aussies won the Cup so it had a bit of a down feeling that year. Now it’s really bounced back. Newport has done a good job of developing the town without buggering it up. There are low rise, quite attractive condos on the waterfront and a new dock for the mega-yachts that add to the place. Most of the crappy T-shirts shops have been replaced by more upmarket stores.
We ended the trip with dinner at Clark’s Cooke House. The place is an institution. It’s sprawls out over four floors, open to the elements like a Caribbean restaurant with great views of the water.
Newport is the front gate to Rhode Island when you approach from the sea. I agree it’s pretty impressive. But once you pass through the front gate and start exploring off the beaten track in this beautiful state you start to understand what a special place it is.
I hear you. I spent 3 months there in 1984 and loved every minute of it. I didn’t get too far out of Newport other than the occasional trip to Jamestown and Middletown but I can see why you would move there. It’s called the Ocean State for good reason.
So, what would be a good itinerary for a weeklong visit to Narragansett Bay and Long Island Sound? On land, I could imagine doing the usual tour of beach cottages and on sea, if we had enough friends to invite, a day charter on a 12. Probably Mystic Seaport on the CT side. Perhaps hooking up with local LIS Etchells folks and crewing, chartering, or begging a ride. Otherwise?